The starting point for modern day ice cream appears to be in Italy during the
Renaissance. The outburst of creativity in this period flowed in all directions and
inspired chefs churned sweetened cream mixtures into Italian ices and gelato. However, ice
cream was mainly a special treat for the rich. Catherine de Medici, an Italian noble who
was married off at 14 to the Duke of Orleans brought the secret with her to France. Ice
cream was also served in the court of Louis XIV. Another sneaky French chef brought the
secret formula to England where Charles I paid him to keep it a secret. When he died, this
same chef sold the formula to a consortium of wealthy merchants. Once the secret was out,
ice cream flourished all over England and France. George Washington, Dolly Madison and
Thomas Jefferson are reported to have enjoyed ice cream once it had emigrated to these
shores. Dessert lovers, vendors, merchants and hucksters and a few truly visionary
Americans are credited with inventing the myriad of ways we have come to enjoy eating ice
cream. The ice cream sundae was designed to allow ice cream to be sold on Sundays,
"The Lords day", when slurping an ice cream soda was not allowed. The sundae was
quieter and the spelling changed so as not to appear to be mocking the Lords day. Hot
fudge sundaes were first served at C.C. Browns in Hollywood by an unknown and long
forgotten "soda jerk". This hot and cold sensation is still one of ice cream
lovers favorites. Immigrants arriving at Ellis Island in the 1920s were given food
considered "typical " American. But many of them tried to spread this
"frozen butter" on bread when given ice cream! Ice cream slathered in a stiff
meringue and browned in the oven was popular over a century ago in Europe, but the
American ego is evident by the outright plagiarism of taking this recipe for " Creme
Norvigienne" and renaming it "Baked Alaska" after the coldest place on this
continent. During WWII, airmen placed a mixture for ice cream in the tail gunners cockpit.
The freezing air and the planes vibration made a delicious ice cream once the pilot had
landed.
The first wholesale ice cream business opens in Baltimore in 1851. Most ice cream at
this time is hand cranked and enjoyed on the spot, whether home made or at a concession
stand. Freezer sections at the market and home freezers as we know them are not yet a
reality. Home refrigerators of the ice block variety begin selling in the 1920s,
with over 75,000 sold by 1925. By 1937 mechanical refrigerators are being produced at the
rate of 3 million per year. Paving the way for frozen dinners followed by ice cream,
Clarence Birdseye is hard at work patenting methods to freeze pre-cooked foods.
The ice cream cone was first introduced at the St. Louis Exposition of 1904 when an ice
cream vendor ran out of bowls; a neighboring pastry maker rolled the ice cream in crisp
wafers and called them "cornucopias". Several other claim to have originated the
cone, including an Italian immigrant who had obtained a patent earlier that year . In
1899, ice cream sales are at 5 million gallons, by 1909 they reach 30 million gallons and
by 1919 they reach 150 million gallons. By the early 1990s, it is a 2.2 billion
dollar industry.
We all know the story of the two 20-something hippies who started making ice cream in
the 1970s in Vermont--Ben & Jerrys went on to become one of the biggest
socially conscious business success stories of our time. But how many know the story of
Reuben Mattus? Reuben has been peddling his families ice cream since he was 17, originally
from a horse and buggy. In 1959, at the wise age of 47, he notices the poor quality of
commercial ice cream. Reuben decides to make ice cream on a large scale, the same way his
family has always made it, with MORE butterfat and LESS air filler than other ice cream
makers. His commitment to quality is a gamble, and he goes a step further by inventing a
fictitious Danish sounding name, packs the product in cartons with a map of Scandinavia
and creates a new category called superpremium ice cream. The gamble pays off and Haagen
Dazs becomes a multimillion dollar venture.
Many of us know ice cream better from the superpremium category than any of the boxed
style ice creams. And the Haagen Dazs and Ben & Jerrys parlors charge more for a
double scoop cone than our parents and grandparents would have paid for an entire box. But
the taste is all we need to convince us it is money well spent, a little bit of luxury to
enhance an ordinary day. |