Publishers Weekly: Anybody who has ever dreamed of joining a restaurant critic's inner
circle will thoroughly enjoy this gossipy, insider's view by the 1996 winners of the James
Beard Book Award for Best Writing on Food (Becoming a Chef).
Interviews with leading critics and restaurateurs are a major part of the authors'
investigation into the methods employed by critics and the effect they have on
restaurateurs' culinary ideals. It's a (relatively) serious topic, but one Dornenburg and
Page address in a vibrant, conversational tone. Thanks to the unexpectedly dramatic lives
of the characters involved, the pages buzz with often surprising tension, humor, and
emotion.
Readers hear from restaurateurs who have staked fortunes on a creative vision, only to
find that success often rests in the hands of a single, highly-opinionated, sometimes
unpredictable writer. The critics meanwhile (most notably The New York Times' Ruth Reichl,
teasingly shown on the cover wearing a face-obscuring hat), don wigs to maintain
anonymity, fend off attacks from knife-wielding chefs, and eat such dubious delicacies as
braised goat penis and worms fried in lard. After being regaled with so many tart and
entertaining observations, the final 100 service-oriented pages (Internet review sites,
critics' favorite restaurants in selected cities) are somewhat anti-climactic. But just
treat them like the after-dinner mint and the rest of the meal will get high marks for its
appealing presentation, spice and color. 50 photos.Order this Cookbook @ Amazon
| more Books by this Author |